The poetic name "goldfish" is consistent with the appearance of hypocytes. The bud seems to be made up of two parts and, indeed, resembles a fish hiding its tail somewhere. My neighbors left me for permanent residence in another country. Orange-red buds have already begun to form on the branches, but soon they began to fall, not blossoming. I managed to figure it out in time and waited for flowering. I will gladly share information on why hypocirrh does not bloom and how to avoid this.Why does not hypocyte bloom?
Giving me a plant, the neighbors said that it belongs to the species hypocyte naked (Hypocyrta glabra) But when something with my new flower went wrong, and I started looking for the cause, it turned out that many species of the genus Hypocirrhosis (Hypocyrta) transferred to the genus Nemantanthus (Nematanthus) Including hypocyte naked, which is more correct to call Nemantanthus finely bristled (Nematanthus strigillosus).
Be that as it may, hypocirrhea, or nematanthus will become a real decoration of any room. In a room culture, several types of nematant hypocirrhitis are grown, and they are all very similar - compact, with beautiful leaves and unusual flowers. And they need identical care. But since I got naked hypocytosis, I will describe it in more detail.
In room culture, the small-bristled nematanthus grows to only 25 cm. The plant produces ascending or straight shoots that rarely branch. It has oval, shiny and small leaves, a bit like boxwood. Tubular yellow-orange flowers of naked hypocytes bloom one at a time or in bunches of three pieces. In nature, this plant blooms in the summer months; indoors, the flowering of the small-bristled nematanthus can last until October.
Hypocyte naked (Hypocyrta glabra), or Nematanthus finely bristled (Nematanthus strigillosus).
Read more about other types of nematanthus in the article Nemantanthus - spectacular beauties with goldfish.
What conditions are necessary for hypocyte?
When purchasing a new plant, it is worth asking where it comes from. Genetic memory is difficult to deceive. Sometimes, for good growth and abundant flowering, you have to go to small tricks and add moisture to one plant, and extend the light day to another.
Hypocirrhythmia is a native of the tropics, which means that it is accustomed to high humidity and the bright sun. So I judged and was cruelly mistaken. Putting the plant to the south side, I substituted it under the most aggressive sun's rays. After a couple of days, she caught on and moved the flower to another (eastern) window, but still got fallen buds and faded whitish spots on the leaves.
The fallen buds of hypocirrha were sincerely sorry and I did not want to lose the rest. I had to find out exactly what conditions are needed for my, as it turned out, nematantus, so that it grows and blossoms, as at home.
The level and duration of lighting plays a decisive role in the development of the plant and the formation of its decorative appearance. Lack of sun leads to rapid deformation of branches, loss of leaves and flowers. The shoots are stretched, the leaves change color, a yellowish tint appears. The buds are smaller, smaller, and sometimes they do not even have the strength to open.
Direct sunlight is also categorically contraindicated. On the southern windows in the summer, nematanthus needs shading. But in winter, this photophilous plant will feel normal there. It is best to place hypocirrhoid on the eastern or western windowsill.
My hypocirrhea favored moving to the veranda for the summer. After the fiasco with lighting, I identified a flower pot in a ringed base on the wall of the veranda, which is covered by grapes on the south side.
In need of heat, the flower is similar to our traditional plants. Its active period falls on spring and summer, sometimes capturing October, if the room has a stable temperature within + 20 ... +25 degrees. In the tropics, the plant does not drop leaves, grows and blooms almost all year round. Nematanthus should be protected from drafts and any temperature jumps.
Nematanthus resting period
At home, the flowering period lasts about 4-5 months. The first buds appear in April, the last fall by the beginning of autumn. If the transplant was carried out at the end of February, then the flowering will be delayed for a couple of months, and then the formation of buds is possible until October. Then hypocirrhythmia stops active growth and goes to rest.
Completely twigs for the winter are not exposed, but the excess green mass leaves and the process of restoration of strength begins. The lighting level remains the same, the length of daylight should be at least 12 hours. That is, in short winter days, hypocirrhea will require additional illumination.
The temperature regime for the rest period is cool, within + 12 ... +14 degrees. Watering is reduced to a minimum, carried out as necessary, is not allowed complete drying of the earthen coma.The poetic name "goldfish" is consistent with the appearance of hypocirrhea because of its colors.
In this regard, my naked hypocytosis turned out to be a whim. Underfilling provokes the discharge of buds, and overflow causes root rot. Over time, I found a compromise, sparingly watering it under the root when the soil dries up and moistening the air around the pot from the spray gun every other day.
Important: watering is carried out only with warm (several degrees higher than the temperature in the room) with standing water!
In the active phase, it is required to water the flower as the top layer dries up, about 2-3 times a week. After flowering, watering is gradually reduced and becomes very scarce, only to maintain vital functions. At the same time, the temperature decreases. For flower health, you must adhere to the principle "the lower the temperature, the less watering."
If a grayish coating appears on the stem and the underside of the lower leaves of the hypocirrhoid, then the plant is affected by gray rot. It appears only from too frequent watering. You need to save the plant immediately, for which a transplant is carried out in a new pot with the removal of the affected parts and the treatment of the leaves with Epin. Watering for 2-3 weeks should be minimized.
From the beginning of April to September, the flower needs support with mineral fertilizers. For this I use complex fertilizers Tsitovit and Florist-Micro Bud. I alternate, fertilizing 1 time in 10 days, carefully watering under the root. I do not use granular types of fertilizers for hypocirrha.
The plant prefers loose, light soil that does not accumulate moisture. Of the purchased soils, the substrate for the senpolia is best suited. If you make the mixture yourself, then you need to take 1 part of leaf and sod land, sand, peat, and necessarily a generous drainage layer.
Nematanthus should be trimmed regularly to maintain shape and give an incentive to branch. Left in its original form, it stretches out, ceases to bloom, loses its decorative effect. Mass pruning is carried out after flowering, before the plant goes on vacation. But you will have to pinch it during the growing season. Even the flowering of hypocytes naked will not become an obstacle to the removal of excess branches.
After cutting, I put one of the shoots into a glass of water, removing the 3 lower leaves. The second was immediately planted in a pot with a moist substrate. Both took root, spending about the same time.
Cuttings are not only the easiest, but also the only way to propagate this plant indoors. Hypocirrhosis does not give root growth, which could be separated, does not tolerate division of the bush and very rarely forms seeds at home.Hypocirrina naked in the summer feels great in the fresh air.
Why does the hypocirrh not form or shed buds?
As you already understood, my hypocyte dropped its buds, because I put it in the very sunshine in the summer. I caught myself in time and corrected the situation. This plant is decorative and without flowers, but “fish” flowers deserve to be tried for their sake.
The discharge of hypocirr buds is rare and becomes a serious signal that the flower is sick or the care conditions are violated. The most common reasons for the lack of flowering in nematanthus experienced flower growers consider:
- lack of lighting;
- too low temperature during active growth and high during dormancy;
- direct sunlight;
- lack of nutrients;
- rotting of the roots.
Today I have a "goldfish" growing and blooming, without causing much trouble. Her original bright lights cheer up, decorate the room and give a lot of positive emotions. I already have several of these bushes! And I recommend you!