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How to safely feed vegetables during fruiting?

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How not to harm when feeding, because you can overfeed, make the soil greasy and the fruit just "burst at the seams"? How to feed so that the plants have enough, and they form fruits of a standard size and quite tasty? How not to harm yourself, since fertilizers, as you know, can also contribute to the accumulation of nitrates in the soil (and in the crop), and these are substances harmful to the human body. Probably, every gardener is interested in these questions in the summer. But, let's, first things first - let's go through each culture, so that reading was both interesting and useful.

Ripening tomatoes on a branch.

1. Tomatoes

Tomatoes - the taste, size, typical color and integrity of the fruit shell are important here. It is for this purpose that the final top dressing of the season is carried out. It is no secret that tomatoes during their growth take a large amount of substances from the soil, and by the time of maturity they need to be replenished. To do this, it is not necessary to poison the soil with chemistry, it is enough to fertilize the tomatoes with light organic matter and apply such fertilizers every 10-12 days until you collect the entire crop.

During the ripening period of tomatoes, green manure is considered to be excellent, for this you need to grind 6-7 kilograms of nettle or any other grass and pour 60 liters of rain water. Next, in this composition you need to add a glass of wood ash and 2-3 kg of mullein, and the mixture is ready. It remains to mix this “fragrant” smelling composition in a barrel of such a volume that everything fits there and leave to ferment for two weeks (naturally, you need to think about preparing it in advance, before the ripening of the tomatoes). After this, the solution should be diluted twice with water and watered each bush, with ripening fruits, pouring a liter of solution under it once every couple of days.

2. Eggplant

During the ripening period of vegetables - if we consider all the top dressing - this is usually the third top dressing. At this time, it is quite possible to dilute a teaspoon of potassium sulfate in a bucket of water and pour over a square meter of plantings. And when the eggplants are ready for collection and they will need to be collected one after another, then top dressing can be brought to regularity - about once every 4-6 days - and until the last fruit is harvested.

By the way, if the eggplant develops worse than you expected, then from the beginning of the first feeding, which we indicated, you can literally increase the amount of nitrogen fertilizers by 3-5 g, also in dissolved form, and better - in the form of ammonium nitrate, bringing maximum, up to a couple tablespoons per square meter.

The fruits of white eggplant.

3. Zucchini and zucchini

Here the best fertilizer in the process of ripening these useful vegetable crops is superphosphate and potassium sulfate (not chloride and not potassium salt). Superphosphate needs about a tablespoon without a pot on a bucket of water and per square meter of land, and potassium sulfate - a teaspoon also without a pot and also per square meter of land.

Zucchini simply loves kalimagnesia, it needs about half a tablespoon under the plant, take a couple of evenings and pour half of the indicated rate (1/4 tablespoon, or 1 teaspoon) under each bush.

4. Cauliflower

Typically, cauliflower top dressing is especially important during the period of the most intense growth of leaf mass and when the heads begin to distinctly “emerge”. Then it’s possible to arm yourself with top dressing: it’s quite possible to take ammonium nitrate in dry form, only then after rain or heavily loosened and watered (if there is no rain, then artificially) soil, in the amount of 18-19 g, superphosphate 22-24 g and potassium sulfate 9-14 g - and all this per square meter. Then sprinkle lightly on the soil - this is quite enough and it will certainly be safe.

Fans of a mixture of organic and mineral water can use a solution of mullein diluted seven times in a bucket of water, and chicken droppings diluted 12 times, also in a bucket of water, and better, by the way, rain - it is soft. It would be good to add 20-25 g of ammonium nitrate, 60-70 g of superphosphate and 30-35 g of potassium sulfate in the solution. Only this is not all per meter! And little by little - a liter for each plant, gently spreading over loosened soil and it would be nice - after the rain.

If you want the cauliflower plants to turn out homogeneous and well developed, then top dressing can be crushed and alternated.

By the way, few people know that on acidic soil, cauliflower grows just awfully, therefore, as soon as it begins to ripen, you can literally a tablespoon of calcium nitrate - dilute water in a bucket of water every ten days and pour it on a square meter of land. In fact, dolomite flour gives the same effect, but it needs a glass full under the top, also diluted in a bucket of water, on exactly the same area. If the situation is critical and even horsetail is growing on your land, which is considered a clear sign of increased acidity, we recommend pouring half a cup of the above solution under cauliflower.

And remember firmly: the last top dressing of cauliflower should be carried out no later than a week before the formation of full-fledged, cut-off heads, otherwise the taste may not only worsen, but nitrates will also accumulate.

5. Broccoli

Broccoli is usually fed intensely when a head of cabbage begins to form. Professionals call this top dressing the second - the main one. Usually a couple of tablespoons of nitrophoska and a couple of grams of boric acid are bred in ten liters of rain, soft water. This volume is enough for five large and six plants, which is smaller.

As soon as the final active growth begins, it is necessary to pour broccoli with slurry, diluting it six times. It is advisable to water broccoli with slurry after rain or loosening and moistening the soil and only under the root of each plant, otherwise it can be burned. The consumption rate is 150-200 g per plant.

6. Kohlrabi

Usually, professionals start feeding Kohlrabi already quite grown up, calling them third in a row. How to visually determine that feeding kohlrabi is necessary at this time? Very simple when the head is the size of a chicken egg. The best feeding option for kohlrabi during the fruiting period is the drug rastrin, reviews about which are very good. This drug needs only a half tablespoons per bucket of water, and this norm is enough for ten square meters of the site.

By the way, if you do not want to use potassium in chemical fertilizers, but they have depleted the soil on your site, then know that kohlrabi is needed and is contained (about 5%) in wood ash. Since this amount is small, in the evening in a previously loosened and watered soil you can pour out a glass of wood ash, at the same time it will enrich the soil with trace elements.

Savoy cabbage and white cabbage.

7. White cabbage

Fertilizing cabbage during fruiting depends on the type of ripening (early, medium, late). Naturally, the earlier the cabbage ripens, the more nutrition it needs for the growth and development of the head of cabbage, so it is quite possible to use nitrophos (two weeks after transplanting seedlings into the ground) - 50 g per bucket of water per square meter. Suitable wood ash (a glass per liter of water for each plant). You can use diluted 15 times chicken droppings (50 g per bush) or mullein (diluted 10 times, 60 g per bush).

I like early cabbage and superphosphate (a teaspoon with a pea in a bucket of water and per square meter). But when using superphosphate, you need to know that it is practically not absorbed in acidic soil, but, I think, there is hardly a joker who will plant cabbage seedlings in acidic soil.

Top dressing of medium (in terms of) cabbage is usually carried out in June, when the formation of head of cabbage starts. Here the ideal option is a mullein, which must be diluted ten times with water or bird droppings should be used, but it needs to be diluted 20 times. It is entirely possible to add 15-20 g of superphosphate or 8-10 g of potassium sulfate to these formulations. Use the solutions carefully - 50-70 g per plant.

Well, and late cabbage, - usually it is thoroughly fed in the last days of the outgoing summer. As a top dressing, potassium sulfate is used in the amount of a teaspoon per bucket of water per square meter of soil, or superphosphate - here you need a tablespoon in the same area.

8. Onions

Usually they start feeding onions when its head reaches a diameter of four or five centimeters, no less. During this period, fertilizers with a large amount of nitrogen must be eliminated completely, because they can enhance the growth of onions and will not allow the cover scales to fully form, which means that the onion will be poorly stored.

The best option is a mixture of potassium sulfate and superphosphate; these are the substances that will complete all the processes of the "structure" of the bulb and prepare it for storage. In a bucket of water you need to dissolve 25-28 g of potassium sulfate and 45-50 g of superphosphate, mix very well so that there are no lumps, and spend this solution on 6-7 square meters of area.

Gardeners who grow onions on turnips speak well of wood ash, it can be scattered both on the surface of the soil with a layer of 1.5-2 cm, and an infusion can be prepared from it. The infusion is prepared simply: you need to take 300 g of wood ash and fill it with a bucket of boiling water. Next, let the infusion stand for a day, then dilute with water twice and water the plant. Gardeners claim that this infusion has a very positive effect on the maturation and shelf life of the bulb.

However, do not forget: onions are insidious in some ways, so before using any fertilizer, evaluate the condition of the plants. For example, if there is an active growth of its heads, which can be easily understood from a lush and healthy feather, then you can wait a bit with dressing. But of course, you shouldn’t plant onions on a fasting ration, during this period you can feed it with nitroammophos, diluting a tablespoon, without a pot, in a bucket of water and spending this solution per square meter of area, this and turnip growth will not slow down (there is something to eat) and the yield will not decrease (the turnip is growing), but the development of diseases must be monitored in this period in both eyes.

Talking about dressing onion turnip well, I just can not help but talk about the important points of dressing it.

So, for example, don’t bring fresh manure under the onion turnips, as many do (here a whole bunch of troubles can arise), do not pour in double and triple doses of nitrogen fertilizers (the feather will be strong, powerful, but to the detriment of the size of the turnip), you must not exceed the dose of mineral fertilizers (heads will be clogged with nitrates), when applying fertilizers, never throw them on feathers, I know that it’s difficult, but you need to try, because then all the greens will have to be washed with water (otherwise burns), and this is additional watering, what if it’s so damp?

And finally, what I want to say about turnip onions - try to have all the elements in the soil, the whole complex, otherwise the lack of one of them will pull a blanket over itself and there will be problems that will not lead to the production of marketable products.

Onion.

9. Carrots

For fruiting plants, this is usually the fourth top dressing, spend it 20-25 days before harvesting, this is the maximum. They do this - first they pour water into the furrows, spending a bucket per square meter, then pour about 300 g per square meter of wood ash into moist soil and after a specified time start harvesting root crops.

10. Cucumbers

Typically, professionals have a third or fourth subcortex. When the first fruits appear, which many already begin to pluck and enjoy their indescribable taste and aroma, you can use bird droppings. Do not forget to dilute it every 20 times and spend it per liter per square meter. The fermented grass, about which we wrote above, goes well under cucumbers, it is better to let it brew for three or four days, then dilute in half, add 12-15 g of urea and a teaspoon of potassium sulfate to a bucket of water - this is the norm for ten square meters of the site.

If the cucumbers look like carrots and these are far from varietal features (i.e. not according to the description of the variety), then it is better to treat them all with ammonium nitrate by performing the so-called foliar top dressing (by dissolving a quarter of a teaspoon in half a bucket of water). Work without fanaticism, so as to wet the surface, but do not arrange tropical rain.

During the period of mass fruiting of cucumbers, when fully developed fruits are removed in bulk (usually two weeks after the first treatment), plants can be fed with potassium sulfate (18-19 g per bucket and per square meter of soil) and superphosphate (16-18 g per bucket and per square meter of soil).

11. Pepper

There are a lot of options for feeding pepper during fruiting (every sandpiper praises its swamp, not otherwise). Let's start with the first option - the infusion of green fertilizers, as described above, but it is better to hammer a solution of any finely chopped greens into the tank, filling it with three quarters and no more, a kilogram of wood ash in it, pour it all to the top and close the lid stirring daily for ten days. It remains to dilute the resulting liquid in a ratio of 1:10 and, using anything, at least a watering can, to water pepper plants simply instead of water, when watering is required, before removing the most extreme (last) pepper.

The next option is a mixture of potassium sulfate and superphosphate, just a teaspoon of the first and a tablespoon of the second, stir everything in a bucket of water and carefully distribute so that 500-600 g of such a solution fall under each pepper plant.

The third option: we take potassium humate (well, if it contains micronutrients) and one bag (this is 10 grams), we breed in 20 buckets of water, then we just go around the garden and pour all the peppers from the watering can under the root. The advantages of humates are obvious - it is 100% organic, that is, not chemistry, it gives the effect of top dressing, stimulates the growth of fruits and their ripening, but very carefully (i.e. naturally) and can even improve the composition of the soil, due to the fact that they begin to sympathize with each other a friend and actively multiply beneficial microorganisms.

Fruits of vegetable pepper, sweet.

12. Radish

In general, it is better to grow radishes at home absolutely without dressing, but if they are required, then please. As soon as you notice the rapid growth of foliage, add superphosphate by dissolving a tablespoon in a bucket of water (per 10 square meters of the plot), and after a day, also add a teaspoon of potassium sulfate in dissolved form and also ten square meters of beds.

Do not be lazy and dissolve ordinary wood ash in the amount of a couple of glasses in a bucket of water and distribute it on the same area, you can either insist in water or without wasting precious time. After a week, inspect the carrots - if the leaves turn pale it doesn’t mean at all that you did something wrong, most likely there is little nitrogen in the soil, then you can spray directly on the leaves, the so-called foliar top dressing (a teaspoon on a bucket of water, and this dose per square meter is enough to restore the former color of the leaves).

13. Beetroot

Well, what cabbage soup without this bright vegetable, which, according to men, cleverly increases the content of testosterone in the human body. What is the only way ?!

So, usually 25-30 days before harvesting beets, potassium sulfate is added to the soil in the amount of a tablespoon per square meter of soil (diluted in water) and about three tablespoons of superphosphate, also diluted in water, in the same area. More fertilizer is not needed.

14. Celery

As soon as the tubers begin to form, he needs potassium (150 g of wood ash in the loose and moist soil of each plant).After a couple of days, nitroammophoska can be added by dissolving a tablespoon in a bucket of water - the norm is ten square meters. This will increase immunity, increase yield, in general - only pluses.

After 20 days, the application of all these fertilizers can be repeated and this ends the season.

15. Garlic

In garlic, the bulb is usually formed in the second decade of June. What can help here is either finely chopped superphosphate, or extract from it in the amount of a couple of tablespoons per bucket of water. Pour this composition of the plant and garlic will be excellent.

Celery root.

A couple of comments on my own and do not need to write that everyone knows about it ... or maybe someone does not know ?!

  1. First remark - fertilizers on vegetables are absorbed much better if you first loosen and water the soil, and after spreading them lightly with a chopper, sprinkle them.
  2. If it rains, then safely put on boots and a raincoat - go to the site (unless the time has come to apply fertilizers) and scatter them on the surface: the effect will be noticeably better.

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