Removable strawberries, or, as it is more correctly called, strawberry remontanas, are increasingly found in garden plots not only by amateurs, but also by professionals. Sometimes it inhabits significant territories, and the owners are satisfied with this coexistence. However, to my surprise, to this day, many people have questions about the proper care of the gardening strawberry, as if this miracle overseas was brought to our land just a couple of days ago.Care of bushes of a repairing strawberry.
The main difference between remontant garden strawberry and ordinary strawberry is its ability to bloom and, accordingly, produce fruit twice a season, without a break. Only a small fraction of plants, such as raspberries and a number of citrus fruits, have such ability.
Garden strawberries of repairing varieties can plant flower buds either under long daylight conditions (for example, the Garland cultivar) or in neutral daylight conditions (for example, the Wonder of the World variety). It is noteworthy that varieties capable of planting flower buds under long daylight conditions give approximately 40% of their harvest in July and up to 60% of the harvest in August.
Remontant strawberry garden, capable of laying flower buds in a neutral daylight, blooms and bears fruit throughout the warm period, gradually giving back its harvest. Given the great wear and tear of plants, plantations of remontant strawberries that bear fruit twice a year should also be changed once every three years, and those that bear the entire warm period - once every two years, each time changing the location of the site.
In our material, we will try to bring to your attention the subtleties of caring for the remont garden strawberries.
How to take care of the garden strawberry remontant?
By and large, varieties of strawberry remontant can not be called moody, they are all quite unpretentious, but there are still subtleties in the care. For example, everyone knows that modern large-fruited varieties of remontant strawberries can form berries weighing from 65 to 90 grams or more. Naturally, this will lead with a high degree of probability to a rather rapid depletion of the soil and the need for additional fertilizers. Perhaps that is why a number of gardeners, contrary to the general opinion, are advised to remove the very first spring peduncles.
Then the second crop of the repair strawberry, firstly, will be much earlier than the due date, therefore, the plants will prepare for winter and without human intervention. Secondly, the berries will be tastier and larger. Sometimes, in total, the total yield after such a simple method even surpasses two total crops or all-season - for repairing varieties of a different type.
Care of the gardening strawberry remontana includes strictly mandatory stages - this is an indispensable watering (plants should be provided with plenty of moisture), fertilizer (everything is good in moderation, but plants should not suffer from a deficiency of one or another element), loosening the soil (after each watering and rain to avoid the formation of soil crust when air and water exchange is disturbed), mulching the beds (after each watering, since it inhibits weed growth and soil crust formation), weed control (especially wheat grass is the most evil the remaining competitor of crops), the destruction of pests and diseases (at the earliest stages of their manifestation), pruning bushes (a specific procedure for strawberries of a repair type) and, finally, preparing for winter (an important stage in the life of a repair strawberry).
Care for the strawberry.
Important! Gardeners who have gone through fire and water definitely recommend mulching the beds with remontant strawberries, because the root system of this berry crop, unlike common strawberries, is high, and plants often suffer from a banal lack of moisture. To save irrigation water you need to use mulch almost immediately after watering (and it is better to water with water at room temperature in the evening). As mulch can be spruce needles, sawdust, straw, humus, hay, ordinary mowed grass. In addition to protection against moisture loss, the mulch will also protect berries from soil splashing during rain and watering and inhibit the growth of weeds (do not forget about them!).
Watering remontant strawberries
Repairing varieties of garden strawberries need to be watered more often than ordinary garden strawberries, especially in the dry seasons of the year. Immediately after transplanting seedlings, plants need to be watered every day, then after five to six days, watering can be done every other day, and ultimately there will be enough watering a couple of times a month.
For irrigation of a strawberry, it is only possible to use warm water at room temperature, fine if it is rainwater collected in a barrel painted black. You can water the plantings in both morning and evening chats. When watering, try to ensure that the soil in the area where the repairing strawberry grows is moistened from two to three centimeters at a time.
As for the mulch of the repairing strawberry, then, as we wrote above, it is needed, but it is not necessary to cover the soil with mulch immediately after watering, it can be done the next day. Instead of mulch, if, for example, it is raining, the soil between the rows can be carefully loosened. But remember: it is very important not to damage the roots, which, as we already wrote, are located closer to the soil surface than ordinary strawberries. The main thing when mulching or loosening is to avoid the soil crust so that air can freely penetrate to the roots.
If there is no rain for a long period and the soil dries up, then you can break all the rules of irrigation and moisten the soil almost every day, not allowing the soil to dry out too much, this is very important. If the soil is already very dry, for example, in a country house where you have been away for several days, then first very carefully loosen the soil, and then water it, but do not do the opposite. Frequent watering is particularly important for neutral daylight strawberry varieties; why, I think that there is no need to explain. The same varieties require more frequent and thorough weeding, especially after rain and the removal of dying leaves that turn red.
Fertilizer of repair strawberries
It is clear that the repairing garden strawberries can be severely depleted and they definitely need the right top dressing. The most actively repaired garden strawberries consume elements such as nitrogen and potassium from the soil. But she needs phosphorus, but to a small extent. With this in mind, phosphorus can be fed only once, introducing doses of superphosphate (15-20 g per square meter) only when planting plantations of repairing strawberries.
The approximate scheme of dressing for repair strawberries is as follows:
Usually, the first top dressing of the repair strawberries is carried out in the third decade of May, during this period they use urea, the composition is very weak - one gram or two (if the soil is poor, per bucket of water), this is the norm per square meter of soil. Approximately in the second half of June, when flower stalks of already repeated fruiting begin to form actively, mullein can be introduced (1: 10 - in the amount of 0.5 l per square meter or bird droppings 1: 15 - in the amount of 0.3 liters per square meter). Along with organic fertilizers, it is perfectly acceptable to use new-fangled mineral top dressing, such as Mortar Kristallin or Kemira Lux.
In general, ideally, the whole season should be stretched so that there are about ten fertilizers, alternating these fertilizers.
The second option for top dressing of repair strawberries is when at the very beginning of June the plants are fed not only with 10 times diluted slurry and 15 times with bird droppings, but also with the addition of 1% urea (1 g per bucket of water), this whole composition must be spent on 2 - 3 square meters of land.Fertilizer of repair strawberries.
Diseases of remontant strawberries
Garden rotten is often attacked by gray rot. It manifests itself most actively in thickened plantations, where the soil is not loosened and frequent watering is carried out, especially by sprinkling and cold water. All aboveground organs of the plant can hit gray rot, which will lead to losses of up to 85% of the total crop. In order to prevent the appearance of gray rot on the strawberry, it is necessary to plant on the site in accordance with the characteristics of the strength of growth and development of a particular variety, mulch the soil, as well as sufficient, but not excessive watering. At the first sign of infection, the affected parts of the plants should be removed.
As a preventative measure, you can treat the plants at the very beginning of the growing season with 2.0% Bordeaux liquid, and after harvesting at the very end of the growing season to fix the result - 1% solution of colloidal sulfur.
There are fungicides to fight the disease, but you can only use them allowed, in full accordance with the instructions on the package, for example, Strobi, Switch, Euparen, Triadimefon (Bayleton), Kaptan. The maximum safe from the list of recommended is the biological product Alirin-B.
It manifests itself when, as in the previous case, strawberry plantings are thickened, moisture is too much, and day and night temperatures noticeably jump. As a prophylaxis in the spring, remove all dry leaves so that the infection does not "sit" on them and treat with 2% Bordeaux fluid. Do not forget about mulching, which will not allow the fungus to get to the surface.
If the disease is very active, then use the approved fungicides, strictly following the instructions on the package, for example, Skor, Strobi, Fundazol.
The first sign of the onset of this disease is the violet color of the strawberry leaf blades, then they curl and become ashen-gray, as if sprinkled with old flour. If you do not want this disease to visit you, then in early spring treat the plants with a weak (slightly pink) solution of potassium permanganate or 1% colloidal sulfur.
There are fungicides, but use only those permitted and in accordance with the instructions on the package, for example, Topaz, Fundazol, Tilt, Strobi and Fitosporin-M.Brown spotting on strawberry leaves. Powdery mildew on strawberry leaves.
Pests of Removable Strawberries
The first pests of remontant strawberries personally in my area are slugs. I escaped them by planting garlic between the rows: honestly, I did not see a single slug anymore.
It is considered a much more dangerous pest of strawberries: if it damages young leaves, then they are quite actively curled and turn yellow. The plant itself is sharply inhibited in growth. A tick can infect from half to the entire plantation, and without treatments it can lead to its death.
Helps to overcome a tick 3% solution of colloidal sulfur, only it can be used very early in the spring and after the harvest. Well, and of course, all kinds of permitted acaricides.
Usually, if a strawberry is infected with a nematode, then its leaves are deformed and curled. A characteristic feature can be seen on the petioles: they become too fragile and sometimes break even from the wind. Fruiting on such plants is either weak or absent altogether. Nematode is considered a quarantine pest, if it is present on the site, the plants are subject to immediate removal and burning.
Usually, strawberry leaves become sluggish, and if they are turned over, then traces of the mite's vital activity are visible - a spider web. As a result, leaf blades become yellow and dry ahead of time. Gardeners write that Karbofos helps very well against a spider mite. After collecting the entire crop, they process the plants and cover them with foil for several days.Signs of strawberry damage by strawberry, or cyclamen mite. Dead strawberry plants affected by a strawberry nematode. Strawberry hit by a spider mite.
Pruning remontant strawberries
Caring for the bushes of remontant strawberries, among other things, also includes pruning. Usually pruning bushes is enough to perform once a season - either in spring or in autumn.
If you live in a cold region where remontant strawberries require shelter, then pruning should be done in the fall. This is done as follows: after the final harvest of the entire crop, the lower leaf blades are removed from the bush, trying not to touch the upper leaf blades, because it is in their sinuses that the fruit buds are laid, from which the fruits will be formed next season.
In that case, if berries are not formed on the mustache and the gardener does not plan to propagate the garden strawberry in this way, then the removal of the mustache is necessary.
Remember, however, such a rule: after the first fruiting of the remontant garden strawberry, the mustache is usually not removed, but leaves that have started to dry, form spots or hide more developed and healthy leaves, must be removed. The removal of such leaves can be carried out in the fall, immediately after the harvest, when the foliage slowly begins to dry out.
If you are a resident of a cold region, then take your time and transfer this operation to the spring, remove such leaves after the snow cover has completely melted.
Important! Many neglect the pruning of dead leaves and mustache of remontant garden strawberries, but their removal is like a shield that protects plants from pathogens, because it is on the sick, old foliage that the infection wintes.
Autumn care and preparation for wintering
Plants of remontant strawberries on a long sunny day often do not fully mature by the end of the season, especially if they are not grown in a greenhouse. Given this, not only part of the crop is lost, but sometimes plants that do not have time to adapt to cold and frost also suffer. The best option to save such plants is to cover them with fresh straw 5-8 cm thick, and spruce spruce branches on top, which will keep the straw from flying over the entire area.Remontant strawberry garden.
As you can see, the cultivation of repairing strawberries does not present any particular difficulties, and even a beginner will cope with this matter, not to mention a professional.
Do not forget, however, even though we already wrote about this, that the plantation should have a lifespan of no more than three years, after which planting should be updated.