I have three six-meter beds with strawberries. It turns out 18 square meters. These ridges exist for ten years. Bushes I naturally update. Before, when May and June were dry, I took two buckets of delicious berries and half a bucket of berries covered with gray rot from my "plantation". If the beginning of summer was rainy, then I would get two buckets of gray rot and only half a bucket of ripe strawberries. It's a shame to share the crop with some kind of rot! I launched an attack on this byak. Fundamentally - folk remedies and agricultural practices. So, step by step - why is my strawberry never sick with gray rot.Why does my strawberry never get gray rot
1. Light and air
I cut down the branches of an old apple tree covering the strawberries from the sun on the south side. I cleaned gooseberry bushes blocking the plantation from the west (we have mostly wind from there). By the way, rot sometimes got to this gooseberry too.
I set myself the task: no weeds and overgrown aisles. Each bush should be ventilated freely. It is not difficult to mow aisles; it is also possible to lay linoleum. Well, mulching helps from weeds and thickets in the garden.
How to understand what strawberries need? If you carefully watch your strawberries, you can learn a lot. Where are the most berries with gray rot? In the shade, and in weedy places.
How many disputes between opponents and supporters of mulch in different beds and cultures I have already heard ... In this case, disputes are inappropriate. Strawberry Mulch is a must! Unless, of course, you do not grow moss on strawberry beds, like my neighbor. She does not mulch, moss copes with the function of mulch perfectly.
I tried to mulch strawberries with black non-woven fabric, mowed grass, sawdust and even a needle bed (litter from coniferous forest). The best option is straw. The "strawberry" strawberries called the British for a reason. Straw is usually purchased in large volumes for livestock as bedding. I was lucky enough to meet local farmers and almost for free to take straw for the substrate.
You need to start mulching strawberries as soon as the first ovaries appear. When laying out the mulch, pay attention to the flowers: have the weevils visited your beds? This unexpected guest can spoil your crop faster than rot.
For winter, straw is best left in the beds.
The best strawberry mulch - strawRead also our material 9 best materials for mulching strawberry garden.
3. Drip watering in the morning
At the same time as the mulch, I lay out my holey hoses for drip irrigation on the garden bed. Before tying the berries, it is better to water the strawberries on the leaves. When the berries begin to ripen - only under the root.
The water temperature, by the way, does not matter. I tried to water even iced water from the well. Under a small pressure and drip, cold water does no harm to the strawberries.
In general, you should not overdo it with strawberry watering. In a day, a bucket per square meter is more than enough. Do not forget that mulching keeps moisture in the ground.
Watering is best done in the morning, so that the straw (or whatever you have as bedding) has time to dry before evening.
If abundant and cold dew is expected - in the evening you can cover the bed with non-woven material directly on the foliage, without arcs. Take off in the morning. The pressed bushes will easily straighten.
4. Cutting to zero - twice a year
Strawberries love haircuts almost like lawns. But here is a trimmer to cut the berry is not worth it.
The first haircut is in the spring. As soon as the snow has fallen, you need to trim each bush. We cut absolutely everything, leaving a heart. At the same moment, we rake from the beds the entire mulch remaining from the autumn. Sprinkle with fresh humus or just ground if necessary. Then abundantly powder the beds with ash.
The second haircut - a week or two after the harvest (approximately in mid-July). Swift again "under zero." We spill a solution of potassium permanganate. After a couple of days - powder ash.
Attention! You need to trim the foliage with scissors or secateurs, washing the tool in a strong solution of potassium permanganate after cutting each bush.
5. Potassium permanganate and ash - “two in one”
I do not use any chemicals. I know that some of my colleagues water strawberries with copper sulphate or Bordeaux liquid.
Two simple things are enough for me: potassium permanganate and ash. Each of these products is both a cure for fungal diseases and fertilizer. Twice a year, they are required to be cut.
For the winter, it is better to fill the beds with ash abundantly. Ash will also help against slugs who like to feast on ripe strawberries. Sprinkle, not sparing, around the perimeter of the garden and under the bush.
A solution of manganese must be prepared every time a new one. The solution, which stood for 1-2 days, already loses its properties.For my plantation I need 2 kg of special "fertilizers for strawberries" for the whole season
6. No manure, fertilizers - as scheduled
We bring a lot of fungal diseases to the beds along with manure. At the same time, bushes overfed with nitrogen get sick much faster than not fertilized at all.
I refused manure, and subsequently - and chicken litter (because we eat unwashed berries).
Now there are a lot of good complex fertilizers. For my plantation, 2 kg of special "fertilizers for strawberries" for the whole season are enough. Norm: 20-25 gr. per square meter.
Only four top dressings:
- in early spring,
- during flowering,
- after fruiting and cutting,
- at the beginning of autumn.
Fertilizers must be embedded in the ground.
Attention! For a successful wintering, at the time of autumn top dressing, you can still 10 grams. for each meter add potassium-phosphorus fertilizers.
7. All that I took from the garden - either for food or for fire
The most stupid stupidity that I, too, I confess, had previously practiced is to pick a berry, see gray rot on it, say "fu" and throw it away. This is how we ourselves propagate and spread the spores of the disease.
I have not had a single such berry for two years now. I don’t have gray rot because for three years now, everything that I take from a strawberry bed goes either to food or to a waste-burning barrel. In the spring I burn old foliage and bedding. In summer, all diseased leaves and berries fall into the grill or into the same barrel.
Everything is simple. We burn everything inedible from the garden, and we pour ash into the garden. Such is the useful circulation of substances in nature on a single site.
This year I have a personal record - 3.5 buckets of delicious strawberries from my three beds, and not a single berry with rot. Want to know how I manage to grow strawberries for 10 years in one place and at the same time increase its yield? I will definitely tell you.