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How to transplant a fruit shrub to a new place?

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This procedure is sometimes carried out by gardeners at their sites. There are many reasons to transplant already formed plants to a new place: these are, for example, soil conditions (often together with climate peculiarities). It happens that the place where the bush grew for several years began to be flooded with melt or rain water, or the bush suddenly suddenly froze. Either the conditions are purely domestic, when, for example, a neighbor built a fence, and now your bush is in the shade, or the bird cherry tree has grown so much that the currant bush growing nearby does not have enough space.

Transplant bush currants.

One way or another, we are faced with the task of transplanting shrubs to a new place. And at the same time, you need to do this so that after the transplant, the bush does not take root for too long and quickly proclaims again.

In appearance, everything seems trivial and simple: you need to dig a bush and re-plant it, however, in fact, far from it is not so. Often, shrubs after such a transplant simply die or get sick and take root for a very long time.

In order for everything to go smoothly, we will give in this article general recommendations for transplanting, give some important tips, and then we will analyze the transplantation scheme for each group of shrubs.

General recommendations for transplanting fruit bushes

The choice of place. You need to pick it up before you start the transplant. This time try to choose the most suitable place, not flooded with melt or rain water, not in dense shade, with nutritious and loose soil. Be sure to choose a place based on the characteristics of the culture. For example, blueberries love acidic and moist soil, and currants - neutral and moderately moist, and so on.

Prepare the landing pit. Of course, it is difficult to calculate what it should be when the roots of the bush are still in the soil, but you can dig a bigger hole, say one meter wide and depth. Such a hole will fit the root system of most shrubs. And if the roots are still cramped, then the hole can be quickly expanded, it will still be faster than digging a hole when the roots of the bush are already taken out of the soil.

When digging shrubs, do not start digging roots directly from the trunk (s), but first dig around the perimeter (carefully, taking care not to damage the roots). Decide on the area of ​​their occurrence and, digging in the lateral roots, slowly approach the center of the bush. After that, you can simply pry the bush with a shovel and take it out of the soil.

We dig a bush.

Digging and replanting any shrub, try to keep maximum roots intact and leave as much soil as possible on them. To shake off the soil, let alone wash the roots with water, there is no need. It can even be dangerous, especially if it is hot outside.

After digging and planting any shrubbery to a new place, he needs to be provided during the season constant wateringso that the soil does not dry out. At the same time, you should not turn the soil into a swamp, you just need to keep the soil moist. Watering can be combined with top dressingapplying spring in a tablespoon of nitroammophoski, in the middle of summer - in a teaspoon of potassium sulfate and superphosphate, and in autumn it is useful to mulch the surface of the soil in the near-chest zone with wood ash (200-250 g per plant). Ash can be applied to any shrubs except blueberries, because ash can deoxidize the soil.

Important Tips

Transplant time. For these purposes, it is better to choose late autumn or early spring, but if you replant very large shrubs, then this can be done in winter. In the summer, replanting plants even with a lump of earth is very risky, especially if you do not have the opportunity to provide the bush after planting with enough moisture and nutrition. By the way, about nutrition: those fertilizers that we gave in the example (with the exception of ash) are best applied in the form dissolved in water.

Try to transplant shrubs as quickly as possible. Remember: the faster the bush reappears in the soil, the greater the chance of its quick survival in a new place. Usually most of the time is spent digging up a bush, while planting is carried out, as a rule, in a matter of minutes. This must be taken into account and time allocated correctly.

We take out a bush with a lump of earth. We move the bush with a lump of earth to a new place. We plant the transplanted bush in the planting pit.

How to transplant bushes of currant, gooseberry, honeysuckle, ierga, viburnum, blueberry and other similar crops

So, you need to transplant a bush of one of these species. Begin by choosing the optimal time for a transplant. We have already indicated the dates, however, they may depend on your climatic region. For example, in the northern regions, the best time for replanting shrubs is spring. In no case should you delay with a transplant: as soon as the snow melts, go to the site and transplant so that the bush opens its buds, waking up, in a new place. So the chances of success of your business increase many times. It is advisable to complete the transplant before the end of March, because during this period active sap flow in plants already begins. If you feel that you are not in time, then do not take risks, it is better to postpone the transplant until late autumn, that is, until mid-November.

As we have already indicated, shrubs can be replanted in the summer. This is risky, but if you can keep the maximum roots intact, do not destroy the lump of land and can provide the bush with moisture and nutrition in the future, then you can take a chance.

It will be easiest to dig out honeysuckle, blueberries and currants, and more difficultly, gooseberries (because of its thorns), but the hardest thing is to dig up a igra and viburnum. If the bush of viburnum is more than five years old, and the bush of snowberry is more than seven, then it will be very difficult for you, since the root system of these plants is quite strong and penetrates to great depths. Here you can dig holes in width and meter, but in depth they are better to do a meter and a half.

All these plants love open and well-lit areas and moderate soil moisture. Blueberry prefers the soil more moist and acidic, this must be borne in mind, viburnum is tolerant of acid in the soil, but loves areas where there is more moisture.

Prepare the soil for planting in advance, dig on a full bayonet of shovels, remove weeds. It is advisable to fertilize the soil, add 4-5 kg ​​of well-rotted manure and 250-300 g of wood ash (only not for blueberries), you can add a tablespoon of nitroammophoska per square meter. For blueberries, the soil should be mixed with acid peat in equal parts, or even better, dig a hole, line it with plastic wrap from the inside, fill it with acid peat and plant a bush of blueberries in it.

When transplanting several bushes of these plants, try to place them so that the distance between them is equal to two meters, and if the bushes are very sprawling, then three (in the case of irga and 3.5 meters is the norm).

Before digging, prepare a planting hole: pour claydite or broken brick into its base with a layer of a couple of centimeters, put a couple of shovels of the nutrient mixture on top, which can be prepared by mixing 5-6 kg of fertile soil, 2-3 kg of humus, 15-20 g of potassium sulfate and 90-100 g of superphosphate. Next, pour a hole well, and it will be ready to plant a bush in it. By the way, when preparing a hole for planting red currants, a couple of kilograms of river sand can be added to the mixture.

Blueberry bush after transplant.

The hole is ready, you can now proceed to move the bush to a new place. By the way, about the transfer: if the desired and final places are far from each other, then it is advisable to stock up with a tarp so that the bush can be conveniently moved, and not drag it by the shoots, risking breaking them (especially with red currants).

Before digging, carry out a revision of the ground part: remove, clipping on the ring, all old shoots that no longer give fruit, if any, are dried up, and shorten the young growth by half.

Next, as we already advised, dig a bush around. With currants and gooseberries, you can step back 30 centimeters from the base, 20 cm with honeysuckle and blueberries, a little more with shrubs and viburnum - 35-40 cm. Having retreated the required distance, you must carefully and gradually deepen the bayonet shovel bayonet one and a half to two, after digging up the plant from all sides and slowly moving to the center, try to extract it from the soil. If several powerful and long lateral roots come across on the way, then it is quite possible to cut them.

Remember that all the described crops have very fragile shoots that easily come off the roots, so when digging a plant from the soil, do not pull the shoots, try to pick up the roots with a shovel and pull them already.

As soon as the bush is removed from the soil, you need to act without delay, otherwise the roots may dry out. You should moisten the soil in the planting hole by pouring three or four buckets of water and establish roots on this nutrient slurry. When planting, we strongly recommend placing the bushes relative to the cardinal points as they grew before. It's easy to understand: shoots on the south side are usually darker, as if with a tan, and on the north side it is lighter (paler).

It is necessary to place the bush in the hole so that it is in the center, so that the roots are evenly distributed throughout the hole, do not bulge up, do not break, and that the root neck is immersed in the soil for a couple of centimeters. After planting, it remains to compact the soil, pour it with a pair of buckets of water and mulch with humus a layer of a couple of centimeters.

Transplanted bush of Irgi

How to transplant a bush of grapes, actinidia, lemongrass and other vines

Grapes and creepers are best transplanted in the fall. The signal to the beginning of the transplant is usually the complete fall of the foliage. This means that the plant has entered a dormant stage. The main thing here is to have time to transplant the plant to a new place at least a week before the start of severe frosts, and of course, to prevent damage to the root system. In the event that winter was early and you did not have time to transplant grapes and vines, then it is quite possible to wait until spring. The main thing here is to have time to complete the transplant ten days before the buds open.

The transplantation of grapes and vines, as well as currant bushes, usually begins with the preparation of a hole for planting, as a hole for currants and crops similar to it. When the landing hole is ready, you can begin to prepare the plants for digging. To do this, creepers and grapes, about three days before transplanting, stop watering, then grapes will need to leave a couple of sleeves with young vines, one or two years old. At the same time, the topmost shoots need to be cut into two or three eyes, and all sections should be covered with garden var. Only after this, the grape bush can be dug, stepping back from the center 45-55 cm, and taken out of the soil by the type of excavation of the currant bush.

As for the vines, they can leave two - three of the youngest shoots, located as well as possible, the rest is quite acceptable to remove. Digging, you can move away from the center, in the case of vines, by 35-40 cm, the rest of all the actions are exactly the same.

In the future, after planting grapes and vines, after compaction of the soil, watering and mulching, it is necessary to remove all the flowers at the first flowering to give the plants full development in a new place. For the next season, it is necessary to remove part of the inflorescences: about half in grapes, and one third in vines. Do not forget to provide plants with sufficient moisture and nutrition during this period.

Young bush of grapes.

How to transplant a bush of raspberries, blackberries, blackberries and similar crops

Raspberry, blackberry and blackberry bushes are best tolerated if transplanted in the fall. Especially autumn transplantation is favorable for the southern regions and central Russia; in colder regions, it is better to transplant these plants in spring.

Both raspberries, blackberries and hedgehogs are photophilous plants, so a new place for them must be open and well lit. Tomatoes, cucumbers and cabbage are considered excellent predecessors for raspberries, blackberries and ezemalin. It is not advisable to plant crops in the place where cultures from the same family grew: they may have common diseases that have accumulated over the years of their cultivation.

The soil for raspberries and blackberries needs to be well prepared, dug up with a full bayonet of shovels, introduced into a bucket of humus or well-rotted manure, as well as a tablespoon of nitroammophoska and 300 g of wood ash per square meter. Ezemalin also requires thorough disposal of weeds, in particular from wheatgrass on the site.

The diameter of the landing pit for raspberries should be 55-60 cm wide and 45-50 cm deep, for blackberries - 40-50 cm wide and 30-40 cm deep, for blackberries - 35-40 cm wide and 45-50 cm deep. Distance between the pits, when transplanting several raspberry plants, it should be equal to 45-55 cm, blackberries - 50-60 cm, blackberries - 55-65 cm.

If you have a choice, then for transplantation, use the most powerful, well-developed plants with a stem diameter of at least a centimeter. It is advisable to cut the shoots about a meter from the surface of the soil, and at the seminal can be 50 cm.

When digging plants, you need to deviate from the base of raspberries 35-40 cm, blackberries 30-35 cm, blackberries 40-45 cm. Next, digging according to the previous scheme, but with one caveat: if the roots are bare when digging, then they must be dipped before planting into the clay talker. When planting, try not to deepen the plants, especially blackberries, if the root neck is deepened deeply, a large amount of root shoots will form, so it is better to place the seedling so that the root neck is exactly at the soil level. After planting, you need to water the soil by pouring 2-3 buckets of water, then mulch it with humus, a layer of a couple of centimeters.

These are simple tricks for transplanting shrubs to a new place, using which you will get a good result in the form of a plant that has come to life in a new area, gaining strength and actively bearing fruit over time.

In conclusion, literally I want to say a few words about strawberries. I often hear the question - is it possible to transplant garden strawberries during flowering. We answer, it is possible to do this, but first it is advisable to cut off all the flowers so that after transplanting the plant gives strength to restore the lost parts of the root system and does not waste energy on the formation of the crop.

If you have any questions, we will be happy to answer them in the comments.

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