Roses in the garden - the charm and pride of the owners of cottages and suburban areas. Of all the variety of garden plants, these flowers are always number one. Many modern varieties bloom several times during the summer and fall. And if in summer even beginner gardeners understand what to do with flowers - water and feed, then closer to winter more and more questions arise. How to properly care for the queen of flowers in the autumn, what measures need to be done so that the plants wintered well - this will be discussed in the article.5 simple rules for caring for roses in the fall
1. Feeding and watering
Rosa responds very well to top dressing, and during the summer, as a rule, fertilizers under the bushes are applied several times, alternating organic and mineral. But this can only be done in the first half of summer. Starting in August, organic supplements and complex mineral supplements need to be excluded. The nitrogen contained in them stimulates the growth of shoots, and this is undesirable.
The flowering of many varieties of roses occurs on last year's shoots and it is very important that they do not freeze in the winter. Well-ripened shoots withstand even the most severe frosts under cover, but for this they must ripen. Therefore, in August, you can feed the bushes with phosphorus-potassium fertilizer "Autumn" or the like.
The main elements of this drug help plants better prepare for winter, in particular, phosphorus plays the role of energy, increasing sugar levels and regulating the respiratory processes of the plant. Sugar, accumulating in pink shoots, prevents the formation of ice crystals in them in cold weather, thereby protecting cells from tearing.
In autumn, it is necessary to reduce the watering of rose bushes, since excess moisture provokes the growth of plants, which should stop long before the onset of cold weather. During prolonged rains, experienced gardeners cover plants with polyethylene and make grooves to drain rainwater. Loosening and weeding in autumn around roses is also not carried out.
Not all roses need autumn pruning. Most often, roses can be pruned before the beginning of September. This procedure gives impetus to the growth of new shoots, and this is extremely undesirable in the fall: young green branches will not have time to lignify, and in winter no shelter will save them.
For the same reason, flowers are not cut in early autumn. Escape with a flower goes through a full cycle of flowering and ripening, and has every chance of a successful wintering. Only diseased or broken branches can be cut to prevent the occurrence of the disease.
But sometimes autumn pruning is simply necessary. This, first of all, concerns bushes that have grown greatly over the summer. The aboveground part of such plants turns out to be an exorbitant burden for the root system, and if you do not remove the extra shoots, then next year the rose will not please its flowering - the buds are chopped, and some shoots will simply die. Therefore, autumn pruning in such cases is a real salvation for the bush: the branches will receive more air and light, and the roots will get more nutrition, which will increase the chances of a successful wintering.
For pruning a rose, you need to choose a warm, dry day, because the wounds should dry out, and in wet weather there is a high probability of infection, and it will be difficult to tighten the cuts. Pruning is best done in late September and early October, when it gets cool and the rose is preparing for winter. At this time, the likelihood that new shoots will begin to grow will decrease.
All old shoots growing inside the bush are removed, and the long tops are shortened. At the same time, you can cut dried flowers and pinch small buds, which are not destined to turn into flowers.In the fall, only diseased and old shoots of roses, as well as very heavily overgrown bushes, can be cut.
3. Preventive treatment
Before shelter for the winter, you need to clean the rose bushes from the remnants of leaves, especially if the plant had signs of illness. In this case, it is dangerous to leave foliage around the bushes - under the shelter, excellent conditions will be created for the development of fungal and other diseases. Therefore, foliage must be carefully collected and burned.
Also, before hiding, you need to process the rose bushes with a 3% solution of iron sulfate. To do this, pour 300 g of powder into a plastic bucket (10 l) and fill it with water, stirring it with a wooden or plastic stick (metal tools and utensils should not be used). The resulting solution should be well sprayed with bushes and the ground around. Iron sulfate copes with various fungal diseases and serves as a reliable prevention.
4. Dowling shoots
As a rule, in the climatic conditions of central Russia, roses hibernate under cover. But you can’t just take and cover the rose like that. Shrubs covered with snow are best tolerated by frost - under a thick cover a comfortable temperature is maintained and the plant rests without stress and shock.
But before a good snow coat is formed, quite severe frosts often occur. Therefore, rose bushes are bent before shelter. This should be done in warm weather, to frost, when the shoots are elastic and they can easily be bent to the ground. During even mild frosts, branches become fragile and easy to break.
Thick, badly bending branches, you need to bend in several stages, gradually, over and over again lowering the shoots. Bent branches need to be fixed with a thick wire stud, each time driving it deeper into the ground.
Spreading bushes and varieties of climbing roses are tied with twine all completely or broken into groups, and already the bunches are bent to the ground.Before shelter for the winter, you need to clean the rose bushes from the remnants of leaves, especially if the plant had signs of illness.
5. Shelter for the winter
You should not hurry with shelter - if you cover the roses too early, they can stay warm in rainy weather, and in late autumn the weather changes literally every day in one direction or another. Therefore, it is more correct to wait until the air temperature rises above 0aboutC, and proceed to shelter.
There are many different ways to shelter roses and other heat-loving plants for the winter.
Read more about the methods and materials for sheltering plants for the winter in our article.
They sprinkle roses with sawdust and fill up with hay or earth, build houses around them ... But recently, many experienced gardeners have agreed that a dry shelter for roses is the most reliable. Here's how to do it:
- The bases of rose bushes are spud with dry peat so that the root neck is covered;
- Arcs are installed on which the covering material will be pulled. If this is not done, then under the thickness of the snow shoots can break. Arcs are set lower so that they are literally a few centimeters above the bent bushes;
- Agrofibre is laid on arcs in 2 layers, with a thickness of at least 42 g / m2;
- Agrofibre is covered with a dense plastic film;
- The edges of the film are pressed on all sides by bricks and boards, leaving small openings for ventilation from the ends of the structure.
Modern varieties of roses, with proper preparation for the cold, tolerate our snowy harsh winters quite well. Five simple recommendations above will help prepare roses for frost, and they will be able to winter easily under reliable shelter. And closer to spring, be sure to read our material on caring for roses in the spring. Because at this time they need much more of your attention than in the fall.