When preparing the garden for winter, do not rush to cut everything dry and yellowed. Pruning in the fall in a decorative and orchard should be done wisely. Untimely, it can jeopardize both wintering and flowering in the next season. During this period, pruning is carried out on many garden plants, but with one large "but." It should be focused and not affect plants that do not need. What plants can not be cut in the fall, I will tell in this article.Which plants cannot be cut for the winter, and which ones are necessary?
What shrubs can not be cut in the fall?
Shrubs and trees are sheared until frost, but after stopping sap flow. They carry out sanitary, anti-aging and thinning scraps that are really necessary in the fall.
All crops need to be cut and cleaned, to which these autumn procedures are “shown” by the type of flowering or fruiting. And in this matter, you must always focus on the individual indications of the species.
Shrubs and vines for the winter are not pruned if they bloom only on the shoots of last year. Before the construction of a protective shelter, they remove all leaves and remove plant debris under the bushes, if necessary, cut off young growth for the normal maturation of shoots.
So, for example, clematisblooming on the shoots of the current year, pruned strongly, varieties of the second pruning group - densely terry, Lanuginoza, Florida and Patens - pruned for the winter only half the length of the twigs, but the rest of the varieties are not pruned at all, removing from supports and covering.Shrubs and creepers for the winter are not pruned if they bloom only on the shoots of last year, for example, many varieties of clematis.
In all that relates to perennials, everything is simple - it is better to leave everything that is possible. If there is no risk that the plants will die from rotting when they are warmed up and soaked, the pruning of the dry parts can be safely postponed until spring, when a simple cleaning will help to quickly prepare the flower garden for the new season.
For plants wintering with leaves and remaining beautiful even under the snow, pruning for the winter is generally prohibited. Winter-green plants - frankincense, heichera, hellebore, periwinkle, ivy, medunits, cleanser, primrose, gravel, liverworts, santolina, heicherella, cinquefoil and many other species - are preserved completely for the winter, with the exception of the affected leaves.
It is not necessary to trim armeria, saxifrages, survivors, some types of veronica, creeping stonecrops, periwinkles, arabisas and shaves for winter and wintering carpets - their appearance in the fall will tell you that it is not worth touching the plants. All bulbous leaves that build up wintering rosettes in the fall can also be included in this category.
Peduncles of evergreens or wintering with leaves of plants can be cut, but they can add charm to the winter garden.
Crops in which the shoots and leaves dry out, turn yellow, but remain stiff, if desired, do not cut, but save. There is a simple rule - everything that dries, but continues to keep its shape, can be left, but lodging, unattractively blackened, soaking - it’s better to remove it.
Natural shelter from dry leaves and shoots will provide additional protection for the winter. In addition, dry curtains will help snow retention and decorate the winter garden.
Do not cut dry inflorescences on hard peduncles that perfectly retain their shape - covered with snow, dry boxes of fruits and inflorescences will look charming, and many will also become additional bird food.
A unique decoration of the winter garden - panicles of ornamental herbs, stonecrop and yarrow shields, goldenrod, dry alium heads, long cleanser "brushes", dry heads of Echinacea and rudbeckia ...
A unique decoration of the winter garden - panicles of decorative herbs and flaps of stonecrop.
Read also our article. Do I need to cut perennials for the winter?
An exception is plants whose abundant self-sowing is highly undesirable. Lupins, solidago, blueheads, window sills, snouts, many asters look great with dry inflorescences, but can give chaotic self-seeding. Therefore, you need to rely on your desire to see new plants in unexpected places.
If the decorativeness with the approach of winter is retained by the flyers, who scatter abundantly on their own, it is also worth weighing the risks of their too rapid spread in the garden. But to harvest annual plants with hard stems in the fall is also not necessary.
Pruning for the winter does not expose all initially southern plants adapted to a harsher climate - decorative sages, rosemary, coreopsis, lavender, perovskiy, which winter much better with natural protection.
Perennials such as maple leaves, some varieties of astilbe, brunner, aconite and even volzhanka repainted in the autumn no less brightly than bushes and trees, and it is worthwhile to remove their bright leaves only in spring.
You should not cut winter grains to decorative cereals - both evergreen, reaching the peak of decorativeness and repainting in bright colors in the fall, and “ordinary” cereals, in which the foliage dies for the winter. Dry grass curtains will appear inconspicuous only until the first snowfall, completely transforming under the snow cover.
Sedges, Miscanthus, hakonehloa, pennissum are left untouched, because it is much easier to clean curtains in early spring, after snow has melted. Large cereals can be bundled into bundles, small cereals can be left as is.
It winters well with dry darkened bushes, especially if inflorescences were not cut, airy oregano. And the host’s favorite will successfully get rid of the leaves herself, usually after leaving the snow there is usually no trace of them.
An exception is to make for grassy perennials, under which primroses and early spring bulbous are hidden - bluebills, snowdrops, crocuses and Co. Cleaning in the fall will allow spring clearing of the first flowers to look much tidier, so several bushes of cereals and perennials can be sacrificed.The hosta will successfully get rid of the leaves itself, usually after leaving the snow there is usually no trace left of them.
Plants that are necessarily cut in autumn
Obligatory pruning before winter is subject to plants susceptible to rot and fungal diseases - with leaves and shoots that can either soak in the autumn or spring and put the whole plant at risk.
So, grassy peonies, delphiniums, daylilies, aquilegia, tall bells, feverfew, bush phlox, veronica are always cut. But plants with basket inflorescences - gelenium, asters, chrysanthemums - which are often included in this group, can either be cut off at the height of short stumps or postpone this procedure until spring.
Do not leave for the winter on flower beds and in any other decorative compositions, the aerial parts and foliage of any herbaceous plants that have been affected by diseases throughout the year. Destruction of leaves and dry stems, garbage collection under curtains and preventive treatment will prevent re-infection and the spread of diseases in the garden.
It is worth collecting leaves, plant debris from the soil and replacing all the mulch if the plants suffered from infection by aphids or other pests.Cut plants with leaves and shoots for the winter, which can soak and decay in the fall or spring, for example, daylily.
Simple fall pruning rules
Trimming perennials or not is largely a matter of taste and desire to preserve interesting details in the winter garden. If you do not visit the garden in winter, leaving plants for decorative purposes does not make sense. And if in the autumn there is simply not enough time for all the work - decorative crops can be sacrificed in favor of more important work on preparing the garden for winter.
But those plants that need to be pruned (or you don’t like the appearance of them before winter) need to be pruned correctly.
Pruning is best done from the third decade of October to the beginning of the third decade of November, focusing on the weather and choosing the days immediately after the first frost or directly in front of them.
Dry, fine days are suitable for trimming. And it is always better to wait for the aboveground part to dry on its own, trying to cut on plants that have already passed to a dormant period.